Re: swivel pin rebuild
Posted by Peter Howard on December 05, 1997 at 21:04:32:
In Reply to: swivel pin rebuild posted by Todd Weiner on November 29, 1997 at 13:40:37:
Todd re seriesIIA swivel pin rebuild.
Are you unbolting the whole swivel ball/housing assembly from axle case or doing it on the vehicle? If unbolting from vehicle there are only six nuts and bolts to undo and its much easier to degrease everything. The six nuts and bolts per side are 3/8inch BSF. If you are in any doubt about their condition they can be replaced with six 3/8inch UNF hi-tensile bolts of similar length with Nyloc nuts. You can also assess the condition of the roller bearing cage which supports outside end of inner axle shaft. Its fairly inaccessible so replace them now if in doubt. Drill holes in a bit of board to bolt ball flange to and clamp board in vice. Essential to hold assembly firmly when checking bearing resistance as in fig 8.21 of Haynes book. Pay attention to swivel pin bearing preload as adjusted by shims under top swivel pin flange. Re-use existing shims by all means but get a few spares in various thicknesses(they're inexpensive) so you can make adjustments. They come in 30thou 10thou 5thou and 3thou and if you have a flock of them you can adjust by one thou at a time.(e.g. 10thou=two x 5thou nad 9thou=three x 3thou.) Get it right as you can end up with excessively tight steering if too much preload or insufficient built-in damping if too little. Don't have the big wiper seal and retainer ring in place while checking as drag of seal will obscure the results. Oddly, the Haynes manual recommends 14-16lbs of drag and the factory series III manual recommends 8-10lbs, and there's no discernible difference between the SerIIA and SerIII swivel assemblies. I compromised, went for 12lbs and ended up with 58 thou of shims one side and 63 thou the other. Do not omit to smear jointing compound on the mating face of the bottom swivel pin/steering arm assembly to prevent oil leaks at bottom of swivel housing. I used Permatex non-hardening aircraft compound. Finally, look carefuly at the chrome plated swivel balls. If they have more than minor pitting the wiper seal has no hope of surviving and keeping the oil in. In Australia the balls can be exchanged for reconditioned ones but I don't know about elsewhere. Thats about it. I did mine a year ago after reading and re-reading several manuals and it was very satisfying to get a good result. E-mail me if you have any queries.
Cheers, Peter.
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