| Re: series 2a wiring Posted by Geoff Tobin on November 02, 2005 at 22:38:00: In Reply to: series 2a wiring posted by melisa on October 31, 2005 at 13:54:06: Rewiring a IIA is not too bad a job. It took me about three afternoons when I did my 62’ 109 PU about fifteen years ago. My work was intended to make the truck serviceable. I am not a purest when it comes to a Land-Rover. At the same time I upgraded to GM Delcoton 10S1 100A single wire alternator, eight fuses, and relays for the headlights. I did not follow the Rover color code, but used the ATA(American Trucking Association)/SAE( Society of Automotive Engineers) code as outlined in SAE J560, and augmented that for additional things such a wipers and a heater. Use good quality wire and terminals I would recommend Ancor Products http://www.ancorproducts.com/. I would recommend using wire no smaller that 14 gage. Ancor terminals are double crimp style this allows a crimp on both the conductor and the insulation. Read over the technical section on the Ancor web site it has a lot of good information and it is not just for Boats. As for tools, I prefer an Ideal Crimpmaster and an Ideal Stripmaster. I also cote the wire strands with Noalox, a corrosion inhibitor. Ancor wire and terminals are available at West Marine as are the tools only repackaged and with a healthy markup. I have found the Stripmaster and Noalox at Home Depot and Lowes. The Crimpmaster can be found at an electrical supply house such as Allied Electronics, Newark, or CED. Land-Rover used a large size (.180) Bullet connector that can be hard to find. I found them at a supply house in San Jose that has since been acquired. The new company web site is http://www.z-tronix.com/. I would opt for the Mil quality connector as the ones I purchased do not crimp well with the Crimpmaster. The Lucar connectors used to make multiple connections are available. I did find that Grote lists .180 bullets and therefore may be available at good auto and truck parts stores. The most common bullet connectors you will find are .156. They don’t work! At the same time I wired the 109 I added side marker lights, Trucklite Model 18 side marker lights. They are now available in LED form. Land Rover used Trucklite lamps on the Ninty when it was first sold in the US. www.truck-lite.com. The hardest part of the rewiring project that I can remember was pulling the wire bundle down the frame and getting it out. The rubber grommets did not survive the process. Order new ones. Run extra wires at the same time for such things a backup lamps, Electric trailer brakes, or ? The fuse blocks I used I would not use again. I would consider the Cole-Hersee six or eight fuse block that can be found on the West Marine web site. I am not sure where to put it thou. There are several other question you need to answer: Starter solenoid, new key switch, with or with out separate starter button. Do you need a new turn signal switch? Try a Signal-Stat 900. The unit is commonly found on a Peterbilt of KW. Replace the headlamp dipper switch. As I recall the lucas unit is the same form factor as a US Unit. Add a volt meter if you do not have one. Do not use a Amp Meter!!!!!!! It is a fire waiting to happen. Most of rewiring a vehicle, is knowing where to get the parts and tools. The work is a bit time consuming. I do not consider it hard. I have three Land-Rovers I need to rewire. The first will be a 65’ 109 PU. The work I did on the 62’ was well worth the trouble. I have not had to do any thing to the electrical system since. At some point I should write an article on rewiring a Land-Rover and or a Catalina C30. I have done both. I believe one should do as much work on their vehicle as they can. If it breaks in the middle nowhere, you need to know how to fix it. Best of success Geoff
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