Posted by David S on January 04, 2002 at 10:08:48:

In Reply to: cold start range rover 2,5 dse posted by kjetil on January 04, 2002 at 07:33:53:

Funnily enough, YES, I have just had these problems, although not in your extreme temperature, as I am in the UK.
"Almost not cranking" points to the battery. I know -10 is cold, and is outside my experience, but when mine did that in warmer conditions it was the battery, which had been damaged by a faulty alternator, which could not put out more than 10 amps, enough to put out the warning light, but not enough to run the car and re-charge the battery.
To test that, when the engine is started, put an electrical load on (hit the heating PROG button) then monitor the battery voltage. It should always be more than 12 volts.

If you are cranking the engine a lot you should get dark grey smoke from the exhaust, this is the unburnt diesel passing through the system. Obviously some may linger in the Exhaust system and appear just after the engione has started. Suspect the Glow Plugs.
Accessing these is a pain, changing them involves removing the inlet manifold. Testing them is easier though.
Have a multimeter to hand.
Remove the battery cover.
Remove the cover to the ECU black box just behind the battery.
Remove the securing strap over the cables that enter this black box.
Lift the ECU and attached Cold start relay from the black box.
Look at the multipin plug on the CS relay, it has about 10 wires. Look for a group of 6 thicker wires, these are the outputs to the plugs. The relay has a picture of the terminals on the side, look for G1 to 6.
First test the relay is working by leaving the Multipin plug connected and probing one of these wires with your multimeter. The other meter lead is connected to the battery -ve post, or the engine block.
You should see about 10 volts, with the plugs powered. When I tested mine, last autumn (ie warmer) the dashboard light was on for about 15 secs, but the plugs were powered for about 30 secs total. This is normal.
Unplug the multipin plug, it has two mechanical catches, AND is tight.
Switch your meter to resistance and measure each plug lead to earth. Expect to see 0.4 to 0.7 ohms. A faulty plug will show open circuit (very high resistance - in the Meg-ohms range).
If you have to change them, remember you need 6 inlet manifold gaskets, and I suggest you change them all.
Although, mine is a '95. At '99 you may have an early life failure, so may feel justified in just changing the faulty ones. The plugs are BERU make, so you may get them cheaper somewhere else than an LR dealer. BMW is the obvious point, depends how good the parts man is, but I was thinking more of a general motor parts wholesaler, we call them motor factors.

Come back if you want the BERU part number and "how to" advice on actually changing the plugs.

If for some reason the relay doesn't come in the temperature sensor may be faulty. The high pressure fuel pipes block access, and the manifold has to come off to remove those.

After that it is a multi-page tech bulletin which I obviously cannot post here, but can post to your personal e-mail address.

Good luck, and please let me know how you get on, thanks.